Three Tips for Capturing Nature Images
Based on a conversation with Nature (and other) photographers
George and Gail Hardy
Get down and dirty! Well…this isn’t really a tip, but you need to know that this is sometimes what it takes to get a great nature shot. Nature photography is an art form in itself and this is emphasised by the number of competitions that have special sections for this category. You may have taken a great shot in your backyard of a kookaburra and think this will count as a great nature shot. But…is the eye completely in focus? Can you see every feather in the lighter sections and every feather in the shadows and dark areas? Have you correctly blurred out the background to eliminate anything to distract the viewer from the main subject? And did you catch that kookaburra in mid flight, with food in its beak and chicks waiting to be fed.
If you did get that shot…then you’re already an expert. But if you missed all of that, then perhaps these three tips will help you understand what it takes to capture that perfect nature image. In our conversation George and Gail discussed birds, insects, plants and fungi. Not to mention reptiles!
These tips should give you a good head start on what to do to ensure you don’t sink. As consumers have more and more choice about what marketing they view, when they view it and how they view it, you need to make sure you don’t miss the boat.
- Observation
You simply cannot get the best shot without getting out there into the wild and observing what is going on with the wildlife around you. What is out there, what do they do and where do they go? There is nothing new about this step. It has always been the key to successful Nature and wildlife shots. What better way to enjoy your photography than to be in the great outdoors with the sounds and sights of nature all around you. Whether it’s birds, fungi or landscapes, this is definitely one of the most enjoyable forms of photography for those who enjoy exploring. Don’t forget to look under your feet. What is growing and what insects could you be missing if you don’t look down.
Once you fully understand the subject you are targeting, the next step is to look at the best ways to shoot them (photographically speaking). Do some further research about them before you go out, such as what are their fears and who are their predators? You may even decide that the predator is more interesting shot. Will they leave the area if you get too close or pick up on your scent?
A good way to start is to break up the season into the types of photos you want to take. Depending on where in the world you are, you can have your Fungi season, your bird season and your insect season. This is where the observation and research comes into it. You may need to do quite a bit of walking and this may include asking permission to go onto private property. Don’t be afraid to ask as you may be pleasantly surprised how many people won’t mind photographers on their land.
- Patience
You’re going to need plenty of this! In fact (and I don’t mean to put you off), unless you are being paid to take the photos or you’re retired, you may just not have the time for nature and wildlife photography.
You may need to watch birds for a few months before you will notice them with nesting material, which indicates that they will soon have chicks to feed. Follow them and make note of their habits to find the best time and place to get your shot. This means going back to the same place day after day, week after week and watching and following them. Patience!
For fungi, it sometimes takes a little while to evolve in the morning and some of them don’t like the sun very much at all. In NSW, March is a good time of the year to start looking for the more elaborate species. When you see the ground is very wet and you start to have leeches crawling on you and sucking your blood, then you know you’re in the right spot. Here’s where you will often need to get down very low, even if it means lying in the mud, to get your shot. You may also have to return to the same site at various times of the day to find out when the lighting is at its best to make certain you get the best possible shot. Patience!
Around May is the time to look out for the eagles and that type of thing, because eagles nest earlier than most other birds in a lot of areas. Sea Eagles can be seen as far inland as Maitland to nest and they don’t only eat seafood. There’s nothin’ like a good rabbit, another bird, a snake or even a pelican, they’ll eat the lot. Fledging time of a sea eagle or a wedge tail eagle (they’re very similar) is approx 100 to 110 days from when that bird is hatched before it leaves the nest. They would be in a nest, probably a hundred foot up in the air on a tree that would be approx 8 foot in diameter and hoping Mum and Dad will come and give them a feed each afternoon. Patience!
Next up you get the smaller birds like the robins and the honey eaters. They start around September as Spring is their best nesting time, with the water birds being best around March.
In between times, insects tend to come out when the weather is warmer, around November, which makes for good tucker for the chicks. You may be able to get some quite interesting insects in your own back yard. Make sure when you are lining up your shot that there are no man made objects in the background, such as houses, fences, power lines etc. It will not only spoil the shot, but it will not be eligible to be entered into a nature competition. Many flies and insects will actually eat each other and these make great nature shots. Look out for caterpillars and by watching closely, you may then catch a butterfly being hatched or follow the butterfly to watch them hatching their eggs. Patience!
Also look for dam areas where there are reeds because not only do many birds lay their eggs in the water but a lot of the damsel flies and the dragon flies actually lay their eggs in the water too. Then, they turn into little nymphs which climb onto the stems and hatch out and they become the mature damsel flies and dragon flies again…so it’s just an evolution from one to the other all the way through. I think that covers the fungi, the birds and the insects. Patience!
- Reaction
This is about preparing yourself for how you will react when you have the shot lined up and what you have to do to get yourself in the position to take the shot, without scaring the subject away.
You may need to be up to 75 to 100 feet away from the actual nest. Have your camera close, but not yourself. Use a cable release that you can extend out to up to 100 feet away from the nest. Then you hide and wait, without taking your eye off the nest, for the perfect shot. None of these birds are going to say “Hey, here I am, look at me!” You need to be ready to react in an instant because if you miss-time it, you miss the shot. It’s likely that you’ll miss more shots than you get.
Sometimes you can get closer and the birds won’t worry about you. You may need to be up a step ladder to get the right angle and you could be there for up to six hours waiting for the shot. George says that when offering Gail lunch while she is up the ladder her reaction is usually “I’m busy!” So, they’re the sort of things you have to do and put up with. You may be in a swamp getting Grieves or Reed Warblers and you’re getting into water maybe a foot to two foot deep with a hide (camouflage tent) set up, it’s 40 degrees and the mosquito’s are ‘round everywhere and you just cannot move out of the hide. Once you do and the birds see you, they’re gone! You don’t get any more shots that day. So you have to get in the hide early and you stay there, watching and ready to react.
To stop birds in flight you have to have a lot of light. If you’re using available light you have to get enough light so that you can use your lens at almost 2000th second to stop the wings. Otherwise they’ll just be blurred and you can see parts of other images through them.
The other way is to use artificial light, such as a flash. You really need a flash that can be set to manual. If you can get within a metre or so of the nest with your camera and two flashes and set your camera on manual at around f11, 125th second and your flashes anything from a 16th to a 64th power, it will stop the wings and they’ll just be frozen in time. You need to time it right and react as the birds are coming in and the wings are open and birds breaking (they’re wings are always laid back and open when they’re breaking and they’re legs are outstretched). This will allow you to see all the feathers in detail. And that’s how you do it.
I hope you’ve learned from this article, Let me remind you that there are camera clubs all over the world and they are one of the best ways to learn more practical ways to improve your photography.




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